PLANTS FOR BONSAI HERE
 

GROUP IV - Challenging, Difficult to Grow
 

Special Condition Key:

A prefers more acidic soil; try 1 Tablespoon white vinegar in 1 gal. water monthly
B brown leaf tips indicate salt burn/salt build-up
C subject to iron or manganese chlorosis (best iron source is Kerex®)
D subject to random branch die-back (which may be due to wrong-timed pruning)
E when established, you can give less water
F frost-sensitive, so protect if a hard freeze is expected
I  more adaptable for use as an indoor bonsai than other plants
L may drop some leaves when relocated or repotted
M very attractive to spider mites, so hose-spray and keep in good air-flow
P pinch first set of leaves when opened, the next will be smaller in size
R do not root prune if at all possible; never bare root this kind of plant
S leaves sunburn/windburn easily, so provide shelter/protection
U larger specimens can take full sun most of day here when established
W bark is tender or branches are brittle, so wire carefully, if at all, to avoid scars and damage
^
 evergreen
%
 deciduous/semi-deciduous
*
 can bloom as bonsai

 
Note: Plants labeled as susceptible to chlorosis when grown in the ground should not have this problem in a container with a quality soil mix and regular fertilizer schedule. “Established” plants are firmly rooted and producing a good growth of new buds which have opened up into leaves.

QUICK FIND PLANT LISTING


GROUP IV - Challenging, Difficult to Grow
 

This Page Last Updated: March 17, 2002




Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) A,B,I,S,W %*
        leaf burn is inevitable if outdoors by mid-June; cut off a leaf and leave the petiole after most leaves have turned brown; don’t keep soil too wet; don’t prune heavily after January or so when sap starts to flow too easily; repot every other year; use low Nitrogen fertilizer, especially after mid-summer; consistency in soil quality and moisture level is said to be more important than protection from sun/wind; 'atropurpureum' variety is hardiest here; there are hardier maple species    [Aceraceae; Sapindales]
 

Manzanita (Arcotostaphylos sp.) R ^*
        usually difficult to grow in a container; treat like a cactus: very quick draining soil mix, little water, no fertilizer; buds back on old wood; successfully collecting from the wild said to be next to impossible; some varieties of A. uva ursa (kannicknik) said to be hardiest; per Oracle, AZ grower (2002), dig two weeks after a rain, add mycorrhiza to the soil, use rainwater (!), put moss on soil surface to help maintain moisture level, and spray with water until extra runs out bottom drainage holes    [Ericaceae; Ericales]
 

Fairy Duster (Calliandra eriophylla) E,F,U,W %*
        [Leguminosae; Fabales]
 

Blue Atlas Cedar (Cedrus altantica 'Glauca')   ^
        Phoenix climate may be too warm    [Cupressaceae; Coniferales]
 

Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa)   ^
        Phoenix climate may be too warm; use Reverse Osmosis (R.O.) water only; shaded inner growth has tendency to die; old growth can turn yellow then brown in winter    [Cupressaceae; Coniferales]
 

Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster spp.) A,E,R,U %
        low horizontal kinds do poorly in the desert heat; give lots of light    [Rosaceae; Rosales]
 

Jade Plant (Crassula arborescens) F ^
        not as hardy as Elephant’s Food; this plant has fewer and larger leaf pads and can die very quickly; DO NOT mist the leaf pads; fetilize less often in the summer than you do with other plants; overwatering causes loss of leaves and root rot; do not water for two weeks after transplanting/repotting    [Crassulaceae; Rosales]
 

Eucalyptus / Gum Tree (Eucalyptus sp.) D,F ^
        difficult to shape with either wiring or drastic pruning; easily rootbound; keep uniformly moist and do not let rootball dry out; one or more as yet-unidentified / untried species may do well here    [Myrtaceae; Myrtales]
 

English Ivy (Hedera helix)   ^
        give some sun, but mostly cool shade; needs good draining soil; cuttings take poorly; does not like to be wired except when shoots are young (to prevent cracking); large branches need to be wrapped in raffia or Bounty® before wiring; tends to develop good nebari (exposed surface roots) with minimal effort   [Araliaceae; Apiales]
 

Australian Tea Tree (Leptospermum scoparium) A,C,R,W ^*
       DO NOT EVER LET THIS PLANT GO DRY, it does not wilt but dies in a matter of hours; water when soil slightly dry on top; style (repotting - pruning - wiring) in stages, not all at once; needs lots of light; don't prune back to bare wood as it rarely buds back on old wood; try not to bother the roots at all, avoid root pruning as long as possible, do NOT attempt to untangle roots, when root pruning is absolutely necessary shave off a thin slice from the bottom of the rootball and then repot, repeat annually or just continually repot in a larger container; might try sitting pot in dish filled with distilled/R.O. water changed regularly, however said to be subject to root rot; use MirAcid® infrequently and very diluted; less-readily-but-white-flowering L. humifusum said to be much better choice; Australian enthusiasts use some species as very hardy bonsai: what are we doing wrong on this side of the Equator?    [Myrtaceae; Myrtales]
 

Blue Spruce (Picea pungens)   ^
        keep roots cool, but not really wet; needs light and humidity; but NO full sun; Phoenix altitude may be too low; prune roots in January    [Pinaceae; Coniferales]
 

Mugho Pine (Pinus mugo) B,M,R ^
    see other pines above; Phoenix climate may be too warm    [Pinaceae; Coniferales]
 

Japanese White or Five-Needle Pine (Pinus parviflora) B,M,R ^
    see other pines above; Phoenix climate may be too warm    [Pinaceae; Coniferales]
 

Italian Stone Pine (Pinus pinea) B,M,R ^
       see other pines above; yellow needle tips means soil too wet, but don’t let roots dry out; best bargains can be found right after Christmas, especially in the garden section of department stores (just be sure your choice was watered regularly)    [Pinaceae; Coniferales]
 

Japanese Flowering Plum (Prunus mume) S %*
        leaves burn easily; ; cut back on water if leaves have dropped; it is suggested to develop the top first with the plant overpotted, then reduce roots last    [Rosaceae; Rosales]
 

Pyracantha / Firethorn (Pyracantha sp.)  M,R,U ^*
        surprisingly rated as a "4", does much better as a landscape plant here than containerized; repot with some of its original soil, best time possibly January here    [Rosaceae; Rosales]
 

Azalea (Rhododendron sp.) A,C,D,S ^*
        keep the roots cool, but not wet; prefers a high organic soil content with peat moss and sand mix; pinch the blossoms after flowering, and that is then the best time to repot this plant also; let a short stump remain when pruning branches; prune the top much less than the sides and bottom; do not use hard/tap water; may be so sensitive that if interior of pot is unglazed, toxic levels of lime may leach out to the roots; needs a little winter chill; these seem to do better if located in the cool shade “under the work table;” NO full sun; slight drop in soil pH to 6.0 may stimulate flowering; use commercial azalea/camelia mix plus some chicken grit; fertilize with SuperbBoom®    [Ericaceae; Ericales]
 

Wisteria (Wisteria sp.)  C %*
        the Japanese species has 15-19 leaflets, and likes full sun; the Chinese species has 7-13 leaflets, and needs some shade; both kinds prefer a high phosphate acid fertilizer in the autumn and also some fish emulsion or rape seed fertilizer; do not use Nitrogen fertilizer after September; have fast growing roots; stop all fertilizing when the flowering begins; cut off dead blooms right after flowering and repot at that time; prefer a deeper pot; trunk wood has to be at least ten years old before the plant will flower; blooms develop out of the previous year's growth; keep on the dry side in the winter; needs repeated wirings; a New Orleans grower (2001) is said to be successful with pure manure as a potting soil -- that's probably too hot for Phoenix but perhaps you can cut with at least two parts of chicken grit to make a workable mix for here   [Leguminosae; Fabales]


 
None of these plants is impossible to grow as long-term bonsai here -- you may just need a little more learning about the particular requirements.  Try any of these for yourself and increase our knowledge. Try unlisted species and varieties and increase our knowledge. 

The use of a greenhouse, especially during the summer months, can vastly improve your success with the less hardy specimens.  However, be aware that "hothouse plants" are less able to withstand sudden, unforseen changes in growing conditions.  These include outdoor weekend displays or shows, even Matsuri in late February.  Just be advised that the risk is always there.

Plant List
Group I
Group II
Group III
Home  >  Phoenix Bonsai Society  > Plants for Bonsai, Group IV